Photo by Michael Burrows — On Coffee Ethics

& the Ethics of *That*
“Is your coffee organic?”
***A COMMON SPECIALTY COFFEE INQUIRY***
*(that is more complex under the surface.)*

With an emphasis on sustainable living nowadays, there are buzzwords such as “organic” and “fair trade” placed on products that appeal to consumers opting for a greener lifestyle. How do I, as a barista, answer if our coffee is organic without being there in every stage of the coffee production from seed to cup? I asked the team. In short, at my cafe, the answer is “no.” In fact, a small percentage of 1-5% of specialty coffee is considered organic.

“If your coffee is not organic, then why is it not?”

And just when customers then scratch their head in concern or walk out the door upon hearing the short answer, I begin to question what is it that drove them away? I begin to ask, “Is what I am doing ethical?”

At the risk of sounding like I am only defending myself with this matter, as if it is okay for many coffee shops to continue to buy inorganic coffees — which on the surface seems exploitative towards the earth and the people who pick, grow, and produce them, I hope that you, too, can see the issue in a way that is addressable as well as understand that certain certification boards, such as fair trade and Rainforest Alliance, began fairly as a way to promote sustainable practices, however deprived certain farms and regions of recognition for their production.

Why some farms are not certified organic

With climate change threatening crop yields, as they attract pests and disrupt harvest logistics, the issue is that not many coffee producing families and farms are able to afford certifications.
Organic certification requirements do not stop there. Regular inspection must be done at all aspects of the coffee chain, even at the roasteries. Sometimes roasteries use chemicals to maintain cleanliness on machines. It is a practice which could result in less machine buying, more consistent roast batches, and due to that, even perhaps improve the quality of taste.
***When it comes to coffee, organic doesn’t necessarily mean better.***
To absolutely deny coffees that are not 100% organic could also mean to deny the livelihoods of the people and regions that produce them. I asked a local roaster, for his opinion on the subject,
“A farmer trying to produce a quality product (and barely being paid a livable wage for that) might need to use fertilizer or insecticide in order to survive. Especially in areas where Roya (coffee leaf disease) and pests have destroyed entire farms saying, “your coffee is worse because you aren’t doing it organically (aka risking your families livelihood being completely wiped out) is horrible.”

Define ‘Ethical’ and ‘Organic’

Various publications shown below attempt to answer how coffee can be ethically grown. However, terminology can be confusing and mixed up, as there are many definitions to what “organic,” means to some. I found three books on this matter:

“Blue Bottle Craft of Coffee” by Freeman, Freeman, Duggan (2012).
“World Atlas of Coffee” by James Hoffman (2015).
“Home Barista” by Egger, Ashby (2015).

All written work above tackled the important deed of defining what “organic” coffee meant. The top two were sufficient. In Blue Bottle Craft of Coffee, Freeman makes a point that, “At the farm level, the downsides to organic certification are high cost, limitations placed on water treatment, and first-world bureaucratic expectations placed on third-world environments.” (37). And in World Atlas of Coffee, Hoffman lays out a helpful chart that distinctly defines the terms “organic,” “fair trade,” and the organization “Rainforest Alliance,” as well as state their mission and history and development. Hoffman also gives advice to consumers to keep an eye out for traceability on coffee packaging, such as the producer’s name(s), name of the farm, cooperative or factory.

Although “Home Barista” attempts to define each coffee ethics terminology, Egger paints a naive picture on coffee ethics labeling and comes short of relating to the nuanced and struggling farms or regions that are unable to achieve the organic certification. My fear is that consumers read only this book and don’t question more.

Some products, too, have claimed to be organic, however the expectations of it when placed on coffee, mainly an imported good, there is a gray area in which consumers may fall for a PR-motivated or for marketing piece that gives deficient explanations or a false idea of how coffee can be ethical. It is a distant, complicated and complex issue that usually does not address the social and economical issues of which farmers face. I believe that just because these sources are distant, it does not mean we should care about it.

As specialty coffee people and consumers of it, I ask us to be sensitive towards the people who make it all possible. Sustainable coffee takes a tremendous amount of work. Again, as Freeman of Blue Bottle puts it, “first-world bureaucratic expectations [are] placed on third-world environments.” If you are a specialty coffee barista, like me, I hope you consider thinking about coffee ethics, because when I did, I grew more sensitive and appreciative towards the people who make it all happen.

Define ‘Ethical’ and ‘Organic’

Thi Vu